How to start a lambretta

Twisting the throttle has no affect on fuel flow when the engine is not running. You need to take the thing to a scooter shop or find a buddy the one that convinced you to buy a scooter and have them teach you how to start and ride a Lambretta. If you never have ridden a Lambretta or a Vespa there is quite a learning curve to approach. You must not only learn how to start but to control the throttle, the clutch, the brakes, the shifter, the turn signals maybe it doesn't have signalsand the horn; sometimes all at once.

Good luck and enjoy your Lam. They're wonderful little scoots! You should put the scooter in neutral and kick start it manually giving it a bit of gas, but be careful not to flood the carborator.

You can also push start it if it has not been started in some time and is giving you trouble. To do this put it into 2nd gear hold in the clutch and push it down a hill until you reach a good speed then pop the clutch and give it some gas, this should get the thing to fire up.

Assuming there are not more serious problems with the scooter. Trending News. A warning sign for Trump at the Villages in Florida. AG Barr learns he's not immune to Trump's wrath. Markle's struggle with being world's 'most trolled person'. Lucille Ball's great-granddaughter dies at NBA star Kevin Love's honest talk about mental health.

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Good luck, Vespa's are a lot of fun!!! Still have questions? Get your answers by asking now.Below you will find an overview of how to make your Lambretta go faster. Should you not like reading, or want to skip to what we recommend, then go straight to this page to view the kits, carbs and exhausts we sell. How ever if you would like some back ground in what does what, please do read on.

Performance can either gained by increasing the CC of your scooter, or by tuning the ports to give more power. With the arrival of cheap cylinders from India, it has become no longer viable to tune or increase the cc of your original cylinder.

You can in certain instances increase cc further beyond these guides, but in general the cylinder walls become dangerously thin, and the cost outweighs the gains you would get. As we said, it has now become pretty much as cheap just to buy a complete bolt on kit.

One thing to note with the wave of cylinders coming in from India, although they are on the whole good quality, and most can be bolted on straight from the box to give some form of improvement, you can make further gains with some simple tuning and modifications. One point to note is that many of the cylinders can infact give poor performance, as these have small inlet, exhaust and transfer timings.

Bolting one of these cylinders on such machines as SX, GP or can sometimes see no or very little gain due to the porting. Porting Porting your cylinder or as most call it "stage tuning" can be an effective way of gaining speed. Porting normally involves making the inlet, exhaust and transfers larger, a word of caution though, you cannot just open them willy nilly to what you think will be correct! If you are considering carrying out such work, we would suggest you either have this carried out professionally, or at least seek to purchase a tuning manual to guide you.

Cylinders Kits Bar far the easiest and most effective way of increasing performance is to use one of a whole host of bolt on kits that exist on the market today.

Lambretta LI Rebuild Part One

There is a very large choice out there for you to be bemused, perplexed and spoilt by. Click here to view what we suggest each kit will do in terms of performance, and the different options you can choose with them Comments!

how to start a lambretta

The shops main Facebook page is where we post all our news, updates and goings on in the shop. How To Go Faster. Making your lambretta go faster involves one thing, make the engine turn faster, thus the rear wheel will. You cant tune and make your Lambretta go faster on the cheap, some will argue against this point, but you will normally see them in a layby, or being the only person left in the village whilst others are riding their scooters!

Cambridge Lambretta have been at the forefront of the Imola, Monza, Mugello cylinder kits since their introduction, and we have developed the kit with the manufacturers.

These kits come highly recommended by us for modern, fast but most of all reliable service. Customers Comments.

Scooters Current Stock Finance Insurance. Well unfortunately for you there are and probably more ways to make this happens, and even more variations on costs, what to use and what not to use!The ability to post messages is restricted to LCGB members.

Any questions contact us at lcgbadmin googlemail. Return to Frequently Asked Questions. If not any tips I can try. A common mistake when starting scooters bikes or cars for that matter is to give it a little throttle to help it start.

Its essential that you do not touch the throttle at all during starting otherwise you will be preventing the cold start mechanism from operating and will almost certainly flood the engine. The next day choke and petrol onno throttle and try to start. If it fires up easier then you probably have a float or needle issue. If you haven't thoroughly cleaned the carb and jets thoroughly you will definitely need to do so to remove ethanol residues. Some of the jets have holes that are less than 1mm in diameter!

Make sure that you have set the idle, choke and air screw settings correctly or it will always be difficult to start. Its a critical mixture. Given the uncertain history of the scooter I would recommend that you go through everything cleaning electrical connectors and re-magnetizing the flywheelnew spark plug etc.

Replace the HT lead and cap etc Reliable starting and running is a product of lots of little things all working efficiently together. To give you an idea Usually had to resort to push starting the thing most of the time. Then I got the flywheel remagnetized and the difference was amazing. It would start first time, every time even with the bike on it's stand. Choke out, kick the starter down and off it would go.

If it starts then you know it is the choke not adjusted properly. Board index All times are UTC.The following steps are from a Lambretta GP but can be adapted to most Lambretta models starting with the Series I bikes. The images show a stripped GP block with all the components removed.

You'll need:. The best thing to start is to freeze the drive side bearing. Freezing metal just causes it to slightly contract. It is nothing you can see or feel but it will make putting the parts together much easier. Keep it frozen until you need to install it. Check the new main bearing to make sure it is spinning freely.

Oil seals are made from plastic around a metal core. They have a lip that has a circular spring around the outside face.

This spring is what causes the seal to work because it puts pressure around where the crank passes through the center. The shot above shows the lip slightly pulled back to show the circular spring. Typically the spring goes to the side that has any pressure. In a Lambretta engine that side is always facing towards the crank due to the primary compression that happens as the piston falls in the bore. The easy way to get the bearing in to the aluminum casing is to heat the casing and feeze the bearing.

This shrinks the bearing and expands the casing just enough to make installation easier. Since there are no oil seals or gaskets in this casing you can heat it up with a blow torch until water sizzles on it. You will need a large socket or large thick washer with a pipe or block of wood to pound the bearing in to place. Make sure that the washer or sockets only makes contact with the outer lip of the bearing which is past the ball bearings themselves.

If you make contact with any of the rotating parts you could damage them as the bearing is hammered in. Start hammering the bearing in from the crank side. Make periodic checks on the transmission side to be sure the bearing is hit all the way in. The shot above shows it only partially in the bore. There should be no space between the shoulder of the bearing and the aluminum casing.

If the bearing is unusually stubborn you can make an easy tool to draw it in to place with washers and bolts from your local hardware store. Basically find two washers 1 with a diameter large enough to cover the trasmission side bearing hole, and 2 to cover just up to the edge of the bearing on the crank side. Find a bolt and pass it through the center and start cranking away. In the shot above I used a second washer becasue the hole in the main washer was too big for the bolt nut.

Once you are happy that the bearing is all the way in, take a break and let the casings cool before installing the oil seal as noted below.

The main oil seal is an easy fit in to a metal flange which is then bolted in place. The flange has two distinct sides and can only be installed with the countersunk screw holes side facing out towards the crank. The oil seal is set into the hole in the center.

Again, the spring goes towards the crank and the seal is fitted from the other side of the flange. The seal can be pushed in place with just your fingers.

Here's a shot of the seal fitted in to the flange from the drive side. The face of the seal should be as flush as possible with the backside of the flange. And here's a final shot of the flange with the oil seal fitted from the crank side. The next step is moving on to fitiing the flange to the casing itself.The Series three and all subsequent models were nick named the slim style.

This is because compared to the series I and II, the Lambretta had become slimmer and sleeker. Version I LI II-type footboard tunnel width between the two decending sides: mmside-panel anti-vibration buffers without springs, speedometer cable with small, square dial LI 2-type.

Electrical system with battery only and single wire to the off switch only. Version II end — mid Larger footboard tunnel width between the two descending sides: mmside-panel anti-vibration buffers without springs, speedometer cable with large dial, electrical system without battery and with two cylinders unified, side-panel anti-vibration buffers fitted with small metal springs from mid Version III mid — May Chromed ring between handlebar and leg-shield eliminated, side-panel clamps simplified, now without cog from Jan.

Body colour parts Fork, frame, leg-shield, fuel tank, handlebar and headset, front mudguard, rear mudguard, floorboard tunnel, wheel hubs, front brake shoe backing plate, wheel rims, saddle frames and large central springs, spare wheel holder, cylinder head air intake manifold 2 piecesglovebox and lid, tail-light body, fuel tap hatch, stand, stand mudguard, right hand rear floorboard L-bracket, battery holder strap, air box, filter carrier and air intake beneath saddle fuel tank support strap from The headlamp cowling, the horn grille and the side-panels are painted in the following colour variants: New Blue, Nile Green, Ruby Red.

Body colour parts Fork, frame, leg-shield, side-panels, headlamp cowl and horn grille, handlebar lever carriers, fuel tank, front mudguard, rear mudguard, floorboard tunnel, wheel hubs, front brake shoe backing plate, wheel rims, saddle frames and large central springs, spare wheel holder, cylinder head air intake manifold 2 piecesglovebox and lid, tail-light body, fuel tap hatch, stand, stand mudguard, right-hand rear floorboard L-bracket, air box, filter carrier and air intake beneath saddle fuel tank support strap from Version IV LI 4 only The glovebox, fuel tank, cylinder head air intake manifold 2 piecesheadlamp cowling, front mudguard, rear mudguard, the air box and filter carrier and fuel tank support straps are painted in New White.

Black finish Rear damper.

How To Go Faster

Crankcase Bare aluminium. Carburettor Carburettor body and float chamber cover bare aluminium, zinc-plated screws and fittings. Control cable sheaths Grey. Silencer Aluminium.

how to start a lambretta

Electrical parts Headlamp bezel, right-hand light switch screws, ignition lock bezel and cover. Engine Kick-start lever. Front fork Screws and pins, lower steering head bearing dust cap, wheel carriers. Frame All screws and bolts, special washers, bushes. Side-panel internal catches, side-panel locking plates. Electrical parts Rectifier box LI. Engine Levers, studs, screws and nuts, oil caps, lubricators. Wheels Plain and cap nuts, bushes, wheel hub brake levers.

how to start a lambretta

Engine Air filter pipe fixing spring version III only.In the Italian market they were badged as the "De Luxe," and were badged as "Grand Prix" for export markets. Sadly, Innocenti decided to halt scooter production and the last GP's rolled off the Italian assembly line in Innocenti actually imported only a few of the Italian made GP's into the U.

In addition, some GP 's also made it in to America, but they are also very rare. A cc version was also made, but, as far as I know, none of these were sold in the US. Some 's have however been privately imported from Europe in recent years.

The GP had a square headlight, shorter forks, a smaller mudguard, and cut-down legshields. The cowls were smooth, with plastic faux air vents added to the sides. Stickers were added to the cowls and legshields. In other areas, plastic parts were substituted for metal.

For instance, the horn cover, glovebox, and taillight housing were plastic. The rear nameplate badge was removed, and a plastic grill was put in its place.

Supertune – electric start your Lambretta | Feature

The seat was altered, and made slightly smaller and flatter on the top. There was also a slightly different seat fitted on the few electronic ignition models produced. All of the rubber bits on the scooter were now back, as opposed to the grey colored parts on earlier scooters.

Overall, there were many small alterations which added up to a striking new look. The badges were simplified on the GP scooters as compared to the earlier models.

Lambretta badges were removed entirely from the sidepanels in favor of the above mentioned stickers and faux vents. On the legshields, the Lambretta emblem on the right side was made smaller and a square model designation badge was placed below it. The Innocenti badge at the center of the horncasting was also altered from a shield style to an oval with an "i" in the middle.

A very small Innocenti badge was placed at the rear of the scooter in the middle of the holes for the spare tire rack. On the right side of the legshields, either a checkered flag or "ink splat" stickers was placed on the GP. On the few electronic igntion models, this stickers was removed and an oval "electronic" sticker was affixed.Most parts for these models are readily available, although some body parts are becoming scarce.

Commonly called the Slimstyle Range, Series III models are distinguishable by a speedometer which is of a sort of clam shell shape. It is flat on the sides, tapering out larger at the top, and the top and bottom are rounded. Another distinguishable feature of the Series III is the separate horn grille which attaches vertically to the front of the horncasting with two countersink screws at the bottom.

When this is the case, the earlier variation of the part is called the pre-mod part. Mid's models will often share pre- and post-mod features. By the end of the production run of Italian Series III models which included all GP and SX modelsall of the post-modification features such as 6 pole ignition systems which have 4 wires coming from the magneto had been adopted. It is very important that you know exactly which model of Lambretta you have before ordering parts.

Use this page as a guide to determine which model you have. The engine number on all models except for TV Ser. I is on top of the motor directly in front of the shock mount and is somewhat hidden by the gear and clutch linkages. On the TV Ser. I it is on top of the motor behind the right hand motor mount. J Range - The frame number is on the right hand side of the frame in front of the shock absorber spring underneath the right hand side panel.

The engine number is on top of the engine case, just behind the right hand engine mount. LD and D Models - The frame number is on the right hand side of the vertical frame tube directly in front of the rear wheel. The engine number is on top of the right hand side of the motor in front of the large oil filler plugs. Very early '72 models had many Innocenti traits including latches on the side panels, floor strips instead of mats, and a separate air box.

Some parts are no longer available i. Other notable features were the black plastic taillight housing, black rubber body trim, and distinctively sleek side panels with a single black plastic grille on each side. When this is the case the origin of the part will be stated in the catalog. Li models came equipped with two saddle seats, TV models with a long bench seat and hydraulic dampeners bolted to the fork legs. Li models were offered in two-tone paint schemes, and came with rubber floor strips.

Li models were offered in a single color, and had aliminum floor strips. Distinguishable traits of all Series 2's include a round speedometer and a headlight unit mounted on the headset casting, and a steering lock directly under the ignition key switch or kill button on the back side of the headset. Some body parts and trim are becoming scarce, otherwise most parts are available.

Visible traits include a round speedometer, headlight mounted on the horncasting, and a steering lock on the front of the headset. Early versions with all Pre-mod features are rare, and their most obvious trait is an air intake system which feeds through the frame tube from behind the rear seat.

Parts availability for the more common later versions with separate air box between the fuel tank and toolbox is similar to Series II. Series I TV - Produced from to Outwardly similar to Ser. I Li but with the addition of dampeners on the front forks, a single bench seat, floor mats instead of strips, and small air vents in the lower front corners of the side panels.

All TV Series 1's were frame breathers, and the engines are radically different from any other model.

how to start a lambretta

Obsolete parts include the rear hub, hand levers, and some electrical parts.


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